I lastly did it. After years of saving images and telling myself “sooner or later,” I landed in Europe’s most well-known walled metropolis… nicely, nearly.
On strategy, the wind (locals name it the bura) kicked up, the pilot waved off the touchdown, and we had been despatched all the way in which again to Vienna. Cue an surprising in a single day in Warsaw, a misplaced carry‑on with all my garments, and the form of journey chaos that will usually derail a visit.
However right here’s the factor: one drive previous these sea partitions, with the stone glowing and the water turning each shade of blue, and I finished caring about my stuff. I used to be simply giddy to be there.
That first exhale occurred the second I walked into Hotel Bellevue Dubrovnik.
It’s carved into the cliff with a glass elevator and large, cinematic bay views, even from my first‑flooring room. The staff was so type; they actually handed me a map marked with close by outlets so I may substitute a couple of necessities.
The very very first thing I did after I obtained to my room was stroll straight to the balcony. Anytime I am at a property with a view it’s the very first thing I wish to see, and Resort Bellevue doesn’t disappoint!
The views overlooking the lodge’s very personal seashore cove are beautiful and I spent a variety of time on my balcony the remainder of the journey.
After soaking within the view, I became the one outfit I had, walked down towards the harbor, and let town do its factor.
The climate was good, the core is walkable, and it’s a simple place to wander, even when, huge image, Dubrovnik could be a little extra automotive‑dependent than some European capitals.
Over a packed few days I ate, sailed, cooked, and wandered my means by the area, and 5 issues specifically blew me away: the luxurious, the meals, the wine, the individuals, and the wonder.
Right here’s precisely the way it unfolded, and find out how to copy the most effective components to your personal journey.
1) THE LUXURY — A Seamless Base With Critical Views
In order for you a no‑stress Dubrovnik, base your self with Adriatic Luxury Hotels (ALH) and let the community do the heavy lifting.
I stayed at Resort Bellevue, which instantly grew to become my pleased place. Think about waking up, stepping onto your balcony, and getting an ocean‑panorama slap of “I’m truly right here.”
The rooms are fashionable and calm, the spa is ideal for a wet afternoon reset, and people glass elevators… you float down the cliff like a film scene.
What shocked me most was how nicely a single‑base technique works right here.
From Bellevue, Outdated City is a fast experience or a barely longer however very doable stroll; island day journeys are easy to arrange; wine nation is a simple half‑day; and the lodge’s personal Vapor restaurant is a real high quality‑eating possibility when the climate turns otherwise you simply wish to maintain it shut.
One night time we deliberate to eat in Outdated City, however the skies opened and we pivoted to Vapor. Zero regrets! The meals and repair had been as polished as any “vacation spot restaurant.”
2) THE FOOD — From Competition Menus To Farmhouse Hearth
This journey was initially constructed round a culinary theme, and Dubrovnik over‑delivered.
I arrived simply in time for Style the Mediterranean at Hotel Excelsior (one other ALH property, and simply on my listing for a future keep). Evening Two introduced a collaboration between cooks Beatriz Gonzalez and Petar Obad, and it was a blast.
They’d me on the seafood course: an octopus dish with blue potato cream and a brilliant pop of orange that simply sang of the Adriatic. (I imply simply take a look at the pic under, does it not make you hungry?)
And dessert? A cacao symphony layered with Mexican vanilla, cacao‑bean ice cream, and caramelized pecans… a type of “don’t discuss to me whereas I’m consuming this” moments.
If you happen to see the competition in your dates, guide it.
If not, don’t fear, Vapor’s seasonal tasting menu scratches the identical itch, and you’ll maintain evenings walkably easy.
On the country aspect, I lastly tried peka, that gradual‑cooked, beneath‑the‑coals Croatian traditional.
We went to Konoba Dubrava on a wet day and ordered it forward (it’s essential to name prematurely as a result of it takes hours).
Assume pot roast’s richer, smokier cousin. Meat and potatoes melting into one another in the absolute best means. Completely price planning for.
After which there’s the ocean‑to‑desk second that Dubrovnik does so nicely: oysters in Mali Ston Bay.
You boat out to floating platforms, learn the way they’re farmed, after which slurp the freshest oysters with a crisp white wine proper there over the water.
It’s easy, it’s enjoyable, and people views again towards Mali Ston are postcard‑degree.
3) THE WINE — A Quiet Heavyweight You Don’t See Coming
I’ve sipped my means by components of France and didn’t anticipate Croatia to shock me like this. However the Pelješac peninsula completely did.
Plavac Mali reds with construction and solar; Dubrovacka Malvasija whites that pair fantastically with seafood; and small, passionate producers like Miloš Winery who pour with a narrative. If you happen to’re already out in Ston/Mali Ston for oysters, cap the loop with a close-by tasting, it’s such a relaxed approach to finish the day.
I used to be a bit drained from the longer day and time change and nonetheless perked up for the pours, particularly a rosé that was unusually expressive and layered. Even drained, I used to be like, “Okay, that’s particular!”
Again within the metropolis, ask your somm for native pairings at dinner. You’ll get a quick training and a deeper connection to what’s in your plate. And for a very particular expertise with a really educated sommelier, guide a wine tasting at Hotel Supetar.
4) THE PEOPLE — 10 Generations Of Welcome
In every single place I went, individuals had been pleased we had been there. It wasn’t performative; it was heat, direct, and unhurried in the easiest way.
Nowhere confirmed that higher than Kameni Dvori in Konavle, the place we did a fingers‑on Backyard‑to‑Desk cooking class.
We kneaded bread whereas it rained, toured their backyard for herbs and greens, collected eggs, after which cooked a multi‑course lunch with the household whereas they advised tales about their 500‑yr roots within the space. Ten generations. You may style that continuity.
It’s a 5‑hour expertise with small teams (2–10), transfers out there, and dietary‑pleasant choices should you ask prematurely. If you wish to really feel related to the place as a substitute of simply it, that is your ticket.
Deliver a small thank‑you from dwelling—espresso or chocolate—as a result of by the tip you’ll really feel such as you’re leaving associates.
5) THE BEAUTY — Each Route Is The Proper One
I anticipated fairly. I didn’t anticipate it in every single place.
The Outdated City stone is immaculate and glows at nightfall. The islands are a watercolor of coves and church buildings.
The shoreline places on a present even from a automotive window.
After which there are surprises, just like the glass elevator at Bellevue gliding by the cliff, or the view the second you step onto your first‑flooring balcony that appears like a penthouse trick.
We spent one good morning on a yacht cruising to the Elaphiti Islands.
First cease: Koločep for espresso proper on the water. You may hike to a little bit hilltop if you would like, however lingering on the café felt precisely proper.
Then Lopud, which is barely bigger however nonetheless small, with a photogenic church up the hill and a handful of tiny outlets.
In summer season, ask your skipper to cease at a cove for a swim; it was a contact too chilly for us, however locals had been nonetheless leaping in and swore the water was round 73°F.
Again on land, we made up for a missed tour by constructing our personal Outdated City night.
Jesuit Stairs (you’ll acknowledge them should you’re a Sport of Thrones fan), then we slipped by a tiny opening within the sea wall to Buza Bar, actually hanging off the cliffs.
Money solely, minimal house, a little bit of a bottleneck getting out and in—however completely price it for sundown beers and that feeling of sitting on the sting of the world.
On the way in which out, we grabbed a snack at Holy Burek, then known as it. Uber works nicely right here; most vehicles are licensed taxis, so don’t be shocked in case your experience reveals up with a roof signal.
One other day we explored Cavtat, a serene, scenic counterpoint to Dubrovnik and my choose for a future keep.
We toured rooms at Resort Supetar (an ALH property), walked the Coastal Promenade, and climbed to the hilltop cemetery for sweeping views.
Later, we returned to the lodge’s Backyard Terrace & Bar to pattern appetizers and drinks for the Good Meals Competition—blankets on the chairs, lights twinkling over the harbor. It was a type of easy, good nights.
The Excellent Ship‑Off
For our final night time, we booked Proto in Outdated City—broadly thought of town’s prime fish restaurant—and it delivered. If you happen to can, reserve the upstairs patio. There’s one thing about waving goodbye to Croatia with seafood in entrance of you and lanterns flickering over the stone. We lingered longer than deliberate—all the time a very good signal—after which walked the lanes another time.
I got here to Dubrovnik anticipating fairly photos. I left with a full pocket book: a competition dinner I nonetheless take into consideration, a cooking class that felt like household, oyster boats in a glittering bay, a cliff‑aspect lodge that grew to become a house base, and new locations to remain subsequent time (Cavtat, I see you).
Total? Dubrovnik is unbelievable. I can’t wait to return. When a vacation spot nails luxurious, meals, wine, individuals, and sweetness all of sudden, it stops being a visit and begins feeling like a endlessly place.
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